Raising Our Food Consciousness

18 Thursday Jul 2013

Posted by periwinkleporte in environment

Tags

Chemical substance, Environment, Factory farming, Fast food, Garden

I have to confess that I rarely look at the news online, but this headline caught my eye recently: What’s really in your food?

This article exposes the additives to our food that are the most obvious or have gotten the most press; I assume there are likely countless artificial ingredients that are added and we’re unknowingly consuming in our food. Can we avoid any/all of these chemicals, additives and ingredients in our search for nutritious, healthy foods? It may be impossible but my gut tells me that knowing where our food comes from is a key. Local—as in seeing it actually grown in front of your very own eyes. Local—as in supporting CSA’s and frequenting Farmer’s Markets. Local—as in asking for locally grown produce in your supermarket. It’s all about taking the initiative to speak up and ask questions.

Below are the ten listed—click on this link to read more details, how they’re used and the justification as to why they’re in play.

rBGH and rBST

Milk from cows treated with rBGH has a significant increase of the hormone insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), linked to breast, colorectal and prostate cancers. And rBGH and rBST can also show up in products like sour cream made with hormone-induced cow’s milk.
Where it’s banned: Australia, New Zealand, Israel, EU and Canada

BHA and BHT

BHA and BHT are widely used preservatives that prevent oils in foods from becoming rancid. Per the U.S. Dept of Health and Human Services, BHA “is reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen …..” BHA is also suspected of triggering allergic reactions and hyperactivity.
Where it’s banned: The UK doesn’t allow BHA in infant foods. BHA and BHT are also banned in parts of the European Union and Japan.

Olestra/Olean

Fat substitute found in fat-free chips and fries; several reports tell of adverse intestinal reactions including diarrhea, cramps and leaky bowels. Because it interferes with the absorption of fat soluble vitamins such as A, D, E and K, the FDA requires these vitamins be added to any product made with Olean or olestra.
Where it’s banned: The UK and Canada

Potassium Bromate

Added to breads to help the dough hold together and rise higher, studies have linked this additive to kidney damage and tumors, cancer and damage to the nervous system. The International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies potassium bromate as carcinogen possibly cancerous to humans. Ironically, it’s approved by the FDA for use in the malting of barley.
Where it’s banned: Canada, China and the EU

Arsenic

Notoriously poisonous, and a known carcinogen, arsenic has routinely been fed to chickens raised in the U.S. for decades to increase poultry’s weight while requiring less feed.
Where it’s banned: The European Union

Colors and dyes

Boxed mac and cheese, cheddar flavored crackers, Jell-O and many kids’ cereals contain red 40, yellow 5, yellow 6 and/or blue 2, the most popularly-used dyes in the United States. Research has shown they can cause behavioral problems as well as cancer, birth defects and other health problems in lab animals. Red 40 and yellow 6 are also suspected of causing an allergy-like hypersensitivity reaction in children. The Center for Science in the Public Interest reports that some dyes are also “contaminated with known carcinogens.”
Where it’s banned: Norway and Austria. And in 2009 the British government advised companies to stop using food dyes by the end of that year. The European Union also requires a warning notice on most foods containing dyes.

Brominated Vegetable Oil — BVO

According to the Mayo Clinic, bromine can accumulate in fatty tissues; linked to trouble with thyroid function and may affect the nervous system causing tremors, depression, and confusion. The FDA has flip-flopped on BVO’s safety originally classifying it as “generally recognized as safe” but reversing that call now defining it as an “interim food additive” a category reserved for possibly questionable substances used in food.
Where it’s banned: Europe and Japan

Doped Up Meat

Linked to hyperactivity, muscle corrosion and adverse effects on the cardiovascular system in humans. Some studies show that it can cause chromosomal abnormalities and behavioral changes.
Fed to cows and pigs to increase muscle mass, it is also one of the few fed to animals in the last days before slaughter (to increase its effectiveness). Experts speculate as much as 20 percent of the drug can be present in meat consumer’s purchase from their local grocer.
Where it’s banned: Europe, Russia, Mainland China & Republic of China (Taiwan)

Hawaiian Papaya

One of the largest crops from the Big Island is genetically engineered, a move supported by the U.S. government. On Wednesday, June 19, 2013, U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry said the United States supports the use of biotechnology to develop “smart” crops that can withstand disease, droughts and floods. Numerous studies have found animals fed genetically engineered foods suffered intestinal damage, bleeding ulcers, kidney and liver disease, and a host of other health maladies.
Where it’s banned: The EU, which does not tolerate genetically engineered papaya

Farm-Raised Salmon

These salmon are being fed canthaxanthin, a chemical that perks up the trademark pinkish-orange color. Some studies have shown that a high intake can lead to pigments collecting in the retina, potentially damaging eyesight.
Where it’s banned: Australia and New Zealand

I’d like to hear if anyone has other ideas as we pursue safer, healthy foods for our families. Please share them with us.

—Debbie Hindman

Spring = Gardens

07 Tuesday May 2013

Posted by periwinkleporte in environment, inspiration

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Garden, Home, Plant, Vegetable

This time of year — springtime! — puts us in the mood to get in the garden and plant some seeds. Especially on nice days like today… and we’re not the only ones. Check out this fun infographic about Home Gardening in the US.

We even have a few posts on the art of composting from last spring that are perfect to revisit this time of year:

The Art of Composting
Part I: Getting Started Composting
Part II: What to Compost
Part III: How to Compost

Happy home gardening!

The Art of Composting: Part Three – How

01 Tuesday May 2012

Posted by periwinkleporte in environment

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Carbon, Compost, Garden, Microorganism, Nitrogen, Organic matter

This is the third and final installment of The Art of Composting series, researched and compiled by Rachel Blackburn. If you missed the previous two, link to and read Part I – Getting Started and Part II – What to Compost to gain more insight into the composting process. We trust you’ll find them very helpful!

Tips for Successful Composting:

Add the Ideal Balance of Green to Brown Materials

It’s important to get the right mixture of components in your compost to ensure that it heats up to a proper temperature and breaks down efficiently. The right mixture of green (nitrogenous) materials to brown (carbon) materials can make a huge difference. Adding too much brown material will result in a pile that takes a long time to break down. Adding too much green material will result in a pile that is slimy, smelly, and doesn’t break down well. A compost pile is full of microorganisms that aid in the decomposition process, and they need both carbon and nitrogen to thrive; carbon for energy, and nitrogen for protein synthesis. Some people recommend an even ratio of green to brown materials, while others recommend 1/3 green to 2/3 brown materials. Play around with the balance until you are happy with the end result. Often, it varies depending on the season.

Shred the Larger Ingredients

Remember to shred or break apart the components in your pile. Especially carbon rich ingredients such as leaves, hay, straw, paper and cardboard as they take the longest to break down. Shredding increases the surface area that the microorganisms have to work on and provides a more even distribution of air and moisture among the materials. The bigger the components in your pile, the longer they will take to break down.

Layer the Materials to Get it Started

Start with a layer of straw or twigs, and then alternate green and brown layers. Keep the layers relatively thin and uniform. Once the pile is active, you can add materials by burying them in the center or just incorporating them more fully when you turn the pile, but to get started, try to disperse the elements fairly evenly, as in the diagram below.

Turn or Mix the Pile Frequently

Turning your pile frequently will help the compost break down faster. Turning the pile adds fresh oxygen to the environment, which many of the bacteria that break down the compost need to survive. If there is not enough oxygen, the bacteria will start dying and the internal temperature of the pile will start to drop. The core of the pile should be around 110-160 degrees F. Turn the pile about every 14 days, or when you notice the temperature has fallen. When turning the material, use a garden rake or aerator tool and move the drier material from the outer edges of the pile into the center, and break up any clumps to get as much air into the mixture as you can.

Check the Compost Moisture Level

It is important to keep the pile slightly moist at all times. To achieve the correct moisture content, the pile must not be too wet and soggy, or too dry. You should not be able to squeeze water out of the pile with your hands, but it should feel damp. If the pile does not crumble in your hands, but keeps its form when you squeeze it, it’s just right. If the pile is too wet try adding some brown carbon materials to the mix, like dry leaves. If the pile is too dry add some more green materials, or use a hose to add some water while turning the pile.

Add an Activator to Speed up the Process

There are a few different compost activators sold, such as the examples below, which are said to help speed up the composting process by adding more nitrogen and protein, which help the microorganisms break down the organic material. They also help to maintain a proper pH balance, and help keep the pile at the ideal temperature by keeping more microorganisms alive.

You can also use fresh manure (only from herbivores, check Part II for what not to compost), bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, comfrey, or high protein dog food as a compost activator.

It can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months for your compost to be ready to use. Once it is ready, use it to enrich your garden, around trees and shrubs to improve the soil content, as an all-over ground cover when planting sod, as a soil additive for house plants and planter boxes, and as protective mulch for trees and shrubs. Have fun with the process, and hopefully the outcome will be worth it!

Happy composting!

— Rachel Blackburn

The Art of Composting: Part Two – What to Compost

24 Tuesday Apr 2012

Posted by periwinkleporte in environment

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Compost, Garden, Plant, Soil and Additives

Composting is a great way to help the environment, while also producing a valuable end product. Yard trimming and food waste together makes up about 27% of the US municipal solid waste stream. Starting a compost pile of your own can significantly cut down the amount of waste your family sends to the landfill. Compost is an organic material that can be used as a soil component or a medium to grow plants and is created by combining organic wastes in proper ratios into piles.

Compost Can:

Reduce or eliminate the need for chemical fertilizers.
Promote higher yields of agricultural crops.
Enable reforestation, wetlands restoration, and habitat revitalization efforts by amending contaminated, compacted, and marginal soils.
Cost-effectively remediate soils contaminated by hazardous waste.
Remove solids, oil, grease, and heavy metals from storm water runoff.
Capture and destroy 99.6 percent of industrial volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) in contaminated air.

What to Compost:

Green (Nitrogenous) Materials:

Brown (Carbon) Materials:

What Not to Compost and Why:

Acidic fruits such as lemons or limes will kill the microorganisms in the pile
Black walnut tree leaves or twigs may release substances harmful to plants
Coal or charcoal ash may contain substances harmful to plants
Dairy products (milk, eggs, butter, sour cream, yogurt, etc.) create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies
Diseased or insect-ridden plants, the diseases or insects could survive and be transferred back to other plants
Fats, grease, lard or oils create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies
Meat, fish, and their scraps and bones create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies
Weeds with mature seeds and plants with pernicious root systems can be a problem unless the compost pile is hot enough to kill them off
Pet waste (dog or cat feces, soiled cat litter, etc.) can contain parasites, bacteria, germs, pathogens, and viruses harmful to humans
Pressure treated wood could release arsenic into the soil
Yard trimming treated with chemical pesticides might kill beneficial composting organisms
Other inorganic materials (plastic, metal, glass, ceramics, particle board, plywood, etc.) will not break down into compost

Now that you know what should and shouldn’t go into your compost, we’ll cover tips for successful composting in Part III next week.

— Rachel Blackburn

The Art of Composting: Part One – Getting Started

19 Thursday Apr 2012

Posted by periwinkleporte in environment

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Compost, Garden, Home, Home and Garden, Soil and Additives

I’ve been dreaming about the day I could start a garden ever since I moved out of my Dad’s house to go to college, almost 6 years ago. When I was younger and living in New Jersey, my Mom had a huge garden (in my eyes at least) and she also had a compost pile near the back of the yard. I remember saving eggshells and vegetable scraps for her to take to the pile, and I knew that it produced fertilizer for our garden, but I didn’t know how or why.

Now that I finally moved into a house with a back yard, I am excited to learn how to garden and start a compost pile of my own! The first step is to decide what kind of pile you would like – one made from scratch, or one contained in a bin. Luckily, my house came with a basic compost keeper in the backyard, but you can start a compost pile from scratch, without a bin, if you have the proper space for it.

There are a few different options out there for compost bins to purchase:

Basic compost keepers similar to this one are sold at stores such as Target and The Home Depot. Most are made from 100% recycled plastic, offer ventilation on all sides, and access panels at the bottom to retrieve the fresh compost. Compost can be mixed in the keeper with a pitchfork or gardening rake.

Wooden compost bins, such as this one, are also available. This bin, made of weather-resistant cedar wood and chicken wire, has two large sections so that you can keep two compost piles going at once. This is a great option if you often compost leaves, which take up a lot of space. The cedar slats are adjustable to allow easier access to the piles.

The next step above the basic compost keeper is a compost tumbler. This one features an aerated internal bar that mixes the compost and allows airflow. The tumbling feature is a convenient way to mix the compost without a rake or pitchfork.

Of course I found the top of the line composters while researching as well. Automatic composters are electronic and can do all of the work for you. They are even offered in sleek, stainless steel designs that can sit right inside your kitchen. They are odor free, and ensure that the compost is kept at the correct temperature to speed up results.

While compost tumblers and keepers are compact and convenient to use, a well-managed, homemade compost pile can handle a lot more material, and it is less expensive to start. But, they could require more maintenance, and you will want to make sure that you have a good location for it. Here are some tips to keep in mind when selecting an area:

Choose an area that is fairly level with good drainage, so that the pile does not sit in standing water when it rains.
Avoid windy areas
Find a location that is in the shade for half of the day, and in the sun for the other half. If the pile gets too much direct sunlight it could dry out, but if it gets too much shade it might not receive enough rain water, or it might remain over-moist.
For convenience, keep the pile close to a water source and at a convenient distance from the house. The best case scenario would be to start a pile at a corner or edge of your garden, so that the rainwater that drains from the pile can carry nutrients to the vegetables.
Keep the pile away from pet areas, as pet waste can contaminate it.
Do not place the pile near wooden buildings, as the process of decomposition will attack the walls just as it will the materials in the pile.

Once you have selected an area, you will want to build some sort of structure to contain the materials. One suggestion would be to build a small (3-4 feet wide) “cage” from chicken wire, welded wire, or plastic gardening fencing. You don’t want it much bigger than 5’ x 5’ because it will become difficult to turn and maintain.

Compost bin made of chicken wire.

You could also build a container out of wood; even four boards connecting to make a square would work. Keep in mind that the wood will need to be replaced as the pile decomposes it. Recycled pallets are a great way to create a DIY compost bin, too.

We’ll discuss what and how to compost in Part II. Stay tuned!

— Rachel Blackburn

Periwinkle Porte

~ Design, inspiration and the environment insights from Associates III Interior Design.

Tag Archives: Garden

Raising Our Food Consciousness

Spring = Gardens

The Art of Composting: Part Three – How

The Art of Composting: Part Two – What to Compost

The Art of Composting: Part One – Getting Started